{"id":23516,"date":"2025-07-06T00:20:06","date_gmt":"2025-07-06T00:20:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/?p=23516"},"modified":"2025-07-11T17:43:35","modified_gmt":"2025-07-11T17:43:35","slug":"from-stratford-on-avon-to-byng-street-in-london-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/?p=23516","title":{"rendered":"From Stratford-on-Avon to Byng Street in London…"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

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A Foretaste of the Heavenly Banquet to Come<\/a> \u2013 next August, when I return to England?<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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July 6, 2025 – To catch you up, last May a companion and I visited England, from the 7th to the 21st. See links in the Notes for the trip’s purpose and progress, but meanwhile: Less than five weeks from now I’ll be flying back<\/strong><\/em> to London. There I’ll meet up with my two “Camino” hiking partners, brother Tom and his wife Carol. After a couple days getting settled in, we’ll take the train to Winchester<\/a>. Two days after that we’ll start the long hike on the Pilgrims’ Way<\/a>, from there to Canterbury Cathedral<\/a>. All of which means I need to finish writing posts about the May visit – that Mid-May \u201cRecon<\/a>” – before beginning the next <\/em>adventure in England.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the last episode<\/a> “we” got as far as the White Swan Hotel<\/a> in Stratford-on-Avon<\/a>, late Saturday night, May 10. (This was after leaving an updated “Much Ado About Nothing<\/a>” at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre<\/a> – “Waterside” – at 11:00 that night, then heading north – on Waterside – into the alien darkness – “not knowing where we’d lay our weary heads.”) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But things worked out, and the White Swan was a real treat. That continued into Sunday morning, before we headed to the 10:00 service at Shakespeare’s Church – Holy Trinity<\/a>. (“Stratford-on-Avon’s oldest building,” on the banks of the Avon, and one of England’s most visited churches.) In the Swan’s<\/em> breakfast nook I shared some food porn<\/em> with folks back home. (Using two terms not often seen in one sentence; food porn and English Breakfast<\/a>.) The Swan’s nook offered a multitude of items, including the classic “baked beans on toast.” I forewent<\/a> that option and instead chose the French toast topped with fruit and some kind of yogurt. My conclusion? “Delish!” (Another word not often used in connection with \u201cEnglish breakfast.\u201d)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After that we walked the 25 minutes or so to the 10:00 Holy Trinity service. (The post London, Liverpool and Stratford<\/a> had a picture of me with the church in the background.) After that we stopped for lunch at Barnabys fish and chips<\/a>, 22 Waterside, then “we” picked up some fudge at a street festival. (I certainly didn’t need it.) Then back to the Swan and a change of clothes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In more casual dress we met friend Jane at the Shakespeare’s Birthplace<\/a> museum about 2 pm. The visit included some old-timey-dressed performers doing bits from Shakespeare plays that involved some<\/em> crowd participation. (Luckily I didn’t get volunteered.) We then followed Jane to her new flat down the street. (The afternoon before – before the hotel reservation “cock up” – we stopped by the two-story flat she was moving from<\/em>.) Then headed back to the hotel. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Later that afternoon I took a walk. First, east on Bridge Street over the Avon River, then a bit more east down Banbury Road, then backtracked to the riverside park. (“The Recreation Ground,” including the Stratford-on-Avon Bandstand.) From there down the riverside footpath to the Lucy’s Mill footbridge, back across the Avon. From there I followed the footpath up past Holy Trinity – from the other end – and on back up to the White Swan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

My appetite restored, we had dinner at the hotel’s restaurant. A great shared meal including roast chicken, roasted root vegetables and gravy, and Yorkshire pudding<\/a>. (Which I thought was a dessert, but no. “Not sweet, a savory crispy bread.”) There’s more detail in the Notes about this “no it’s not really a dessert even though the name makes it sound that way!” (Which illustrates the joy of discovery on your travels.) The hotel staff also showed us some things about the White Swan that had been uncovered during one of many renovations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That included a framed readout of the hotel’s history, dating back to 1450. The readout included that after his 1582 marriage to Anne Hathaway, Shakespeare and Anne “would have drunk many a drink in the newly decorated tavern.” Another find? An ancient Bible in French open to the Book of Tobit<\/a>. Yet another, a wall painting uncovered in a more recent renovation, this one in 1927. Research showed that the painting was commissioned by William Perrot, and could be dated “around 1560,” because Perrot and nearly all his family died “in the great plague in 1564.” The painting itself depicted the story of Tobias and the Angel<\/a>, said to be a subject “doubly appropriate for a tavern of the day.” (Which I didn’t know.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next morning, Monday, May 12, we took the train from Stratford back to London, with a stop off at Winchester<\/a>. (Where I’ll start my Pilgrims’ Way<\/a> hike.) The goal was Winchester Cathedral<\/a>, where the August hike will officially<\/em> start. But first, we stopped for lunch at The Royal Oak Pub<\/a>, the “oldest bar in England,” from at least 1002 A.D. (According to the chalkboard.) We checked out the Cathedral – and it was awesome – then headed back to the Oak. The Royal Oak that is, after an hour or two touring the Winchester Cathedral. (Lots of stuff to see.) This time I saw that “the Oak” had Estrella<\/a>, a Spanish beer, on draft. (A brew I first learned to love on the original Camino Frances \u2013 French Way \u2013 from Pamplona, in 2017.) And by the way, I’ll have more pictures and commentary of Winchester in September, when I get back from the hike.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally, way<\/em> later in the afternoon, we got on the train to London and eventually arrived at “The Place.” The place where I’d be laying my weary head down, for nine nights in a row. At Marlin Apartments, 9 Byng Street, in the Canary Wharf<\/a> area. But first, the Ordeal\u2026<\/em><\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ride on the Elizabeth line<\/a> – from Waterloo Station to the Jubilee metro station – was the ordeal, or more like a nightmare. 5:00 pm, big-city London, and the cars were jam-packed, all full of hot, sweaty, tired and anxious-to-get-home bodies. We had to let two trains go by, as they were packed like the proverbial sardines – chock full of people. Eventually we saw the third train a BIT less crowded, so we got on. Still, in all the jostling I got separated from my travel partner. She ended up surrounded – and jostled – by tall thuggish teenage lads, who refused to hold on to safety rails and giggled at the resulting bumper-car mayhem. I was luckier. I was surrounded – back against the sidewall – by a bevy of lovely young lasses. (Apparently, aside from the usual rush hour business-person traffic, a local high school just got out too.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But wait, there was more! <\/em><\/strong>Google Maps says it’s a mere half-mile walk from Jubilee station down to 9 Byng Street. That’s assuming you head straight south, past Oysteria seafood, cross the New South Dock Bridge<\/a> from Canary Wharf to the Isle of Dogs, down Admiral’s Way to Marsh Wall, then catty-corner over to Byng Street. That’s what Google said to do, but the only problem – construction!<\/strong><\/em> As in construction unanticipated by Google blocking the Google-suggested way. Meaning we had to backtrack up to Bank Street, then head west and on to negotiate the Marsh Wall Roundabout, then down the A1206, also known as West Ferry Road. All while lugging our bags behind us – and my “backpack on my back<\/a>” – in what turned out to be a full mile hike, through a-bit-past-5:00 London rush-hour traffic. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Meaning, by the time we turned left onto Byng Street and found the lodging, we were hot, tired, hungry and bedraggled, not to mention in no mood to go back out looking for a place to have dinner. But somehow we got checked in, unpacked a bit and admired the nearby view of the Thames, through a gap in the tall buildings. And somehow I managed to find Westferry Food & Wine<\/a>, a three-minute walk south in the Tower Hamlets building. There I found a bonanza: A slew of Ashoka Ready to Eat<\/a> packets, including – for that night – Ashoka Aloo Matar<\/a>, generally around \u00a3<\/a>1.79 a packet. (We had two that night, to mix and match.) Also a prophylactic 16-ounce beer for right-away-me, and a good selection of ready-mixed gin-and-tonics-in-a-can. (A late-nigh libation I grew quite fond of over the next nine nights.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the morrow we planned a day-trip-by-train Oxford<\/a> and sights like the Ashmolean Museum<\/a>, but that’s a story for next time. Meanwhile, enjoy the view of Marlin Apartments, Canary Wharf<\/a>. We had the seventh-floor apartment that included the ship-brow-like patio-balcony at the “toppermost of the poppermost<\/a>” of the picture below. I later found out that it cost an arm and a leg<\/a> – at least to me – but at a split cost of $100 a night, “actually not that bad – for London!” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Plus – I knew where I’d be laying my weary head for the next nine nights in a row… <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The upper image is courtesy of Royal Oak Winchester Uk – Image Results<\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re<\/em>: The Notes for “the trip’s purpose and our progress<\/em>.” Starting last March, Next up \u2013 Hiking the Canterbury Trail<\/a>, then A mid-May \u201cRecon<\/a>,\u201d On \u201cLondon, Liverpool and Stratford<\/a>,” and A return, to \u201cLondon, Liverpool and Stratford<\/a>?” <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re: “Camino hike.” My definition: Any hike where at the end of each day you can look forward to a warm bed, hot shower and a cold beer. (You don’t have to pack a tent, sleeping bag, etc.)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

For more on Shakespeare’s church see Church of the Holy Trinity, Stratford-upon-Avon – Wikipedia<\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re: Yorkshire pudding. The Britannica<\/a> article included this about the classic<\/em> old-fashioned British Sunday lunch: roast beef (not roast chicken), “typically cooked on a spit in a fireplace:<\/em>“<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Below the roast was a metal tray into which the fat and beef drippings fell. When the roast was done<\/a>, a batter<\/a> of egg, flour<\/a>, and milk was poured into the tray, rising in the manner of a souffl\u00e9 and forming a satisfying crunchy crust at its base where it had come into contact with the sizzling beef fat. The resulting pudding was then cut into squares, covered with gravy, and eaten as an appetizer or, less often, served alongside the roast, since it is considered a dish that should be served at once while hot.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

And now you know more than I did when I first tasted this “Surprise, it’s not a dessert!”<\/em> Also, Pudding – Wikipedia<\/a> says it’s a type of food which can <\/strong>be – but doesn’t have to be – “a dessert<\/a> served after the main meal or <\/strong>a savoury<\/a> (salty or sweet, and spicy) dish, served as part of the main meal.”<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re: Backpack on my back. An allusion to The Happy Wanderer – Lyrics – Scout Songs<\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re: “Toppermost of the Poppermost.” A phrase from the Beatles’ early days, when times were tough. To cheer up the group John Lennon would say, “Where are we going, fellers?” The other three would respond, “To the top, Johnny!” Lennon: “And where’s that, fellers?” Response: “To the toppermost of the poppermost, Johnny!” See The one line John Lennon would use to cheer up The Beatles<\/a>, and The Poppermost: The Poppermost Explained – Blogger<\/a>. (I used the word “fellers” from Michael Shelden’s England, the 1960s, and the Triumph of the Beatles | Plus<\/a>, from Great Courses.)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The lower image is courtesy of Marlin Apartments 9 Byng Street London Images – Image Results<\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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As an extra added bonus, see If you want your 70s to be the most fulfilling decade of your life say goodbye to these 10 behaviors<\/a><\/em>, for use in some future post.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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*   *   *   * *   *   *   * July 6, 2025 – To catch you up, last May a companion and I visited England, from the 7th to the 21st. See links in the Notes for the trip’s purpose and progress, but meanwhile: Less than five weeks from now […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[9],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23516"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=23516"}],"version-history":[{"count":182,"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23516\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":23978,"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23516\/revisions\/23978"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=23516"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=23516"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=23516"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}