{"id":14261,"date":"2023-05-27T17:44:14","date_gmt":"2023-05-27T17:44:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/?p=14261"},"modified":"2023-06-28T13:15:32","modified_gmt":"2023-06-28T13:15:32","slug":"gearing-up-for-the-stevenson-trail-in-france","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/georgiawasp.com\/?p=14261","title":{"rendered":"Gearing up for the Stevenson Trail in France…"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"http:\/\/walkinginfrance.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/01\/Travels1.jpg\"
The book that inspired our next hike, 150 miles in France, coming up this September…<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

*   *   *   *<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To get to the hike on the Stevenson Trail in France<\/a>, I have to go back to Paris – again! <\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This will be my third time back, actually. I first visited the City of Light<\/a> in 1979, in the company of a young co-ed named Janine. When she finished a semester abroad in London, we toured Europe via Eurail Pass<\/a>. (Including two days in Paris.) The second time was in 2021<\/a>, when I met up with three hiking companions. They were going to hike the full Camino de Santiago<\/a>, starting from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port<\/a> on the French side of the Pyrenees<\/a>. I only hiked as far as Burgos<\/a>, in Spain, for reasons explained in Countdown to Paris \u2013 2021<\/a>. (I’d already hiked to Santiago twice, but hadn’t hiked over the Pyrenees. And felt guilty about missing that.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next <\/em><\/strong>September, 2023, two of those hiking companions* and I will hike the Stevenson Trail<\/a>, starting in Le Puy-en-Velay<\/a>, 340 miles southeast of Paris. But first comes Paris. More specifically, first comes the half-hour train ride from De Gaulle airport to the Gare du Nord<\/a>. As noted in the ’21 post, “I\u2019ll take the RER Train B to the Gare du Nord. (18 Rue de Dunkerque.) Then out the exit past the Starbucks, and take a left and onto Rue la Fayette.” And by the way, in 2021 I had a heck of a time just getting out <\/strong><\/em>of the Gare du Nord, up one flight to the streets of Paris. I didn’t see any clear exit signs, but hopefully this time “experience<\/a> will be<\/em><\/strong> the best teacher<\/a>.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2021 I had a list of things to do in two days on my own, including a visit to Notre-Dame<\/a>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But there is one place on the outskirts<\/strong> that I definitely want to visit… As I recently learned, Choisy-le-Roi<\/a> is where Henry Kissinger conducted secret negotiations … to end the Vietnam war, in 1972. But back in 1979 it was also home to a youth hostel, and on the grounds of that hostel [Janine and I] camped in a little tent, between the Seine and Marne Rivers. With the moonlight shining through the tent flap\u2026 (Can you say, \u201cromantic interlude<\/a>?\u201d)<\/p>

<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

I didn’t get to see Choisy-le-Roi<\/a> in 2021, but maybe this time… <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back to the September trip. Early on, getting ready for that hike, I thought of visiting Arles<\/a>. (In the south of France, of Vincent van Gogh<\/a> fame?) I checked and saw a Grande Vitesse<\/a> high-speed train connection for $43.87, from Paris to Arles. (Second class, Senior discount. A first-class ticket is $50.80, as best I can tell. Paris to Arles by Train from \u20ac 25.70 | TGV Tickets & Times<\/a>.) But the trip from Arles to Le Puy-en-Velay cost almost the same, $48.60. And while it’s 471 miles from Paris to Arles, it’s 132 from Arles to Le Puy-en-Velay, where the hike starts. (Go figure.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Or I may just take a Grande Vitesse<\/a> from Paris to Lyon<\/a>, for a couple of days there. I’ve never been to Lyon, and besides, hotels are a lot cheaper there than in Paris. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

*   *   *   *<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

More about that 150-mile, 15-day hike. It follows the trail Stevenson followed for his 1879 book Travels with a Donkey in the C\u00e9vennes<\/a>. The first of five chapters is titled Velay<\/a><\/em>, referring to the township in south-central France where our hike will start. Known these days as Le Puy-en-Velay, it’s famous for its cathedral<\/a>, a special kind of lentil<\/a>, and lace-making. It’s also the starting point of the Chemin du Puy,<\/em> one of many pilgrimage routes of the Santiago de Compostela<\/a>. And finally, it’s known for its green liqueur “Verveine du Velay<\/a>,” flavored with verbena<\/a>. (A liqueur “normally taken after a meal as a digestif<\/a>, but it can also be used in cocktails.”)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

*   *   *   *<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another note to get out of the way. This next hike may have been “preordained before the beginning of time.” Or at least strongly foreshadowed<\/a> by a post I did in February 2015, On donkey travel \u2013 and sluts<\/a>. (A heads up: Stevenson’s word “sluts” had a different meaning in 1879, explained in the notes.) The post started off saying Stevenson’s 1879 book inspired the theme and title of John Steinbeck<\/a>‘s 1962 travelog, Travels with Charley<\/a>. (Steinbeck<\/a> called Stevenson’s 1879 book “One of the single greatest works of English literature.\u201d) But mostly the Sluts<\/a> post talked about why Stevenson, Steinbeck and other “old people” like us would put ourselves through such ordeals. (Mostly it’s because it “beats playing Bingo at the Senior Center!”) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

So anyway, Travels with a Donkey<\/a> recounted a \u201c12-day, 120-mile solo hiking<\/a> journey through the sparsely populated and impoverished areas of the C\u00e9vennes<\/a> mountains in south-central France in 1878.\u201d The book itself – considered a pioneering classic of outdoor literature<\/a> – describes some of Stevenson’s trials and tribulations. (Which seem part and parcel<\/a> of pioneering<\/a>: “One of the first people<\/a> to do something.”) One such trial involved what a pain it was to get the donkey \u2013 \u201cModestine\u201d \u2013 to move at anything more than a virtual crawl. (She was, said Wikipedia, \u201ca stubborn, manipulative donkey<\/a> [Stevenson] could never quite master.\u201d) Incidentally, hikers today can<\/strong><\/em> rent a donkey, for something like $1,000, but we chose to forego that option.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another trial? The whole idea of “camping” – especially while hiking – was totally new:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[Travels with a Donkey<\/a>] is one of the earliest accounts to present hiking and camping<\/a> outdoors as a recreational activity. It also tells of commissioning one of the first sleeping bags<\/a>, large and heavy enough to require a donkey<\/strong><\/em> to carry. Stevenson is several times mistaken for a peddler, the usual occupation of someone traveling in his fashion. Some locals are horrified that he would sleep outdoors … because of wolves or robbers.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

But here’s a news flash. Wolves and robbers aren’t such a problem any more. (I hope.) Plus, the area is no longer sparsely populated, hikers aren’t seen as strange “peddlers,” and you don’t have to camp outside as Stevenson did. See Walking the GR70 Chemin de Stevenson \u2013 I Love Walking In France<\/a>. Stevenson \u201ccould not have imagined that one hundred years later, thousands<\/strong><\/em> of walkers would be inspired to follow in his footsteps.\u201d Also, “There are plenty of options for overnight accommodation* on a long-distance walk along the Chemin de Stevenson.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Getting back to the sluts. In the part, \u201cUpper Gevaudan \u2013 A Camp in the Dark,\u201d Stevenson wrote of trying to get to Le Cheylard l\u2019\u00c9v\u00eaque<\/a>, “a place on the borders of the forest of Mercoire<\/a>.” There was no direct route, and it was “two o\u2019clock in the afternoon before I got my journal written up and my knapsack repaired.” Besides – he was told – it would only take an hour and a half to get there. But he got lost, and finally “rejoiced” when he found Sagne-Rousse. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

He went on his way “rejoicing in a sure point of departure.” (He knew where he was on the map.) In the meantime it rained and hailed alternately, and the wind kicked up. Two hours later he ended up <\/em>“tacking through” a bog when he finally found a village and a crowd of locals, including children. But when he moved toward them to ask directions, \u201cchildren and cattle began to disperse, until only a pair of [12-year-old] girls remained behind.\u201d The local peasants were – he said – \u201cbut little disposed to counsel a wayfarer,\u201d and one \u201cold devil simply retired into his house, and barricaded the door.\u201d That left only one source of guidance, but:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As for these two girls, they were a pair of impudent sly sluts<\/strong>, with not a thought but mischief. One put out her tongue at me, the other bade me follow the cows; and they both giggled and jogged each other\u2019s elbows.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

So he proceeded on. He finally found another village, but no one answered when he knocked on doors seeking shelter for the night. Finally he had to set up camp in the pitch-black night:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All the other houses in the village were both dark and silent; and though I knocked at here and there a door, my knocking was unanswered. It was a bad business; I gave up Fouzilhac<\/a> with my curses. The rain had stopped, and the wind, which still kept rising, began to dry my coat and trousers. \u2018Very well,\u2019 thought I, \u2018water or no water, I must camp.\u2019  <\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So much for being a pioneer. And incidentally, at the end of “Camp in the Dark,” Stevenson brings up “the infamous Beast of G\u00e9vaudan<\/a>,” a man-eating ogre said to prowl the area. (\u201c<\/em>G\u00e9vaudan, 48700 Monts-de-Randon\u201d is 54 miles southeast of Le Puy-en-Velay.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I definitely need to do more research on that<\/strong><\/em> topic before starting the hike, and maybe for my next gearing-up post. But in the meantime, “First comes Paris – Again!<\/strong><\/em>” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

*   *   *   *<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Next September I’ll be hiking Robert Louis Stevenson Trail, but – FIRST COMES PARIS! <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

*   *   *   *<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The upper image is courtesy of<\/em> Robert Louis Stevenson Trail \u2013 Walking in France<\/a>.<\/em> I used it as the lead image for the February 2015 post On donkey travel \u2013 and sluts<\/a>, in my companion blog.<\/em> I did a follow-up post on the Trail – kind of – in March 2015’s On \u201cI pity the fool<\/a>!”<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re: “City of Light.” Something I didn’t know, all those lights were installed to prevent widespread murder. “In the 1660s, Paris was Europe\u2019s murder capital. Even senior police and bureaucrats were being found in pools of blood… To prevent Paris\u2019 violent crooks” – and murderers – “from hiding in shadows, the king ordered almost 3,000 street lanterns be erected to light Paris brightly at night, making it the first large European city to have evening illumination<\/a> and earning it the City of Light title.” From the link, Paris\u2019 Nickname \u2018the City of Light\u2019 Has a Gruesome Backstory<\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aside from posts noted elsewhere, the bibliography<\/a> for this post includes, beginning with my own Countdown to Paris \u2013 2021<\/a>, from this blog: Travels with a Donkey in the C\u00e9vennes – Wikipedia<\/a>, GR 70 – Wikipedia<\/a>, Robert Louis Stevenson Trail GR70 – The Enlightened Traveller<\/a>, and Stevenson Trail Gr-70 – my 11 days hike through France<\/a>. See also On donkey travel \u2013 and sluts<\/a>, February 2015, On \u201cI pity the fool<\/a>,” March 2015, On St. James, Steinbeck, and sluts<\/a>, from September 2016, and On Saint James the Pilgrim \u2013 and \u201cTransfiguration 2021<\/a>,” from October 2021, all from my companion blog.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re: Companions. In September 2021, the hiking companions were my brother Tom, his wife Carol, and Carol’s brother Ray. I hiked over the Pyrenees with them, and through Pamplona to Burgos in Spain.<\/em> The full Camino route they took was the French Way<\/a><\/em>. In September 2022, Tom, Carol and I did a 15-day hike in Italy. See Some highlights \u2013 Way of St. Francis 2022<\/a><\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re: Plenty of options for overnight accommodation. See the I Love Walking In France<\/a><\/em> post:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are plenty of options for overnight accommodation on a long-distance walk along the Chemin de Stevenson… The longest section, from Le Pont-de-Montvert to B\u00e9dou\u00e8s-Cocur\u00e8s, requires a walk of 23.5 kilometres (14.7 miles) or, if you wish to spend the following night in Florac, you will need to cover an additional five kilometres (three miles) of walking. To avoid this, a shortcut along the GR 68 will allow you to reduce the walk by six kilometres.<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

(Click the link to see the full list of possible places to stay for the night along the Trail.)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the last part of this post I borrowed extensively from The Annotated ‘Travels with a Donkey in the C\u00e9vennes’\/A Camp in the Dark<\/a>.<\/em> Also, Sagne-Rousse is a “hamlet in Loz\u00e8re<\/a>, Occitanie<\/a> … situated nearby to the localities Lou Debarras<\/a> and Gourgouline<\/a>.”<\/em> As to Fouzilhac, see GR\u00ae70 Segment 4 : From Langogne to Fouzilhac – AllTrails<\/a>. From Langogne to Fouzilhac: “Head out on this 7.8-mile point-to-point trail near Langogne, Loz\u00e8re. Generally considered a moderately challenging route, it takes an average of 3 h 18 min to complete.” <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The lower image is courtesy of Paris City Of Love \u2013 Image Results<\/a>. Or Google \u201cparis city of lights<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

*   *   *   *<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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